Wine Harvest with Remi Cohen, Chief Executive Officer of Domaine Carneros, in Napa Valley
Hanging out at Cali's top vineyards, I stumbled upon Remi Cohen, the chill COO at Cliff Lede Vineyards (these Napa Cabs are a total game-changer, courtesy of Bordeaux's influence). She's the real deal, dropping knowledge bombs in the often pretentious world of wine. And let's be real, we need more badass females in the wine scene!
Fast-forward a few years, and Remi's moved up the chain, taking the CEO role at Domaine Carneros in Napa in 2020, right smack dab in the middle of COVID-19 and California wildfires. If that ain't a storm to weather, I don't know what is! But who else would you trust to navigate the turbulent waters but Remi Cohen?
Founded in 1987 by the legendary Champagne Taittinger family, Domaine Carneros is all about sparkling wines and small-batch Pinot Noirs. They're the gold standard for Cali sparkling wine, managing to combine the unique Carneros terroir with centuries-old French winemaking techniques. Their Hyde Vineyard Merlot? It's the secret sauce you have to try when you swing by the winery!
Last fall, I popped by Remi's place on my way back from Maui to North Carolina, decked out in Hawaii-friendly attire for a low-key pizza party in her backyard. JJ, Remi's husband, an assistant winemaker at Matthiasson, along with Shawna Miller, winemaker at Earthshine Wines, were there too, pouring plenty of wine. It was hands-down the best pizza party I've ever been to, with my dream guests in tow.
To kick off a new wine series, In the Vines With, I thought it was only fitting to start with Remi. Here's what she had to say:
Jenn Rice: So, Remi, what got you hooked on the wine world?
Remi Cohen: Post-Cal Berkeley with a degree in molecular biology, I was on the hunt for grad programs in the area. But when I stumbled upon UC Davis' Viticulture and Enology program, I knew I'd found my destiny. This fascinating blend of biology, chemistry, agriculture, sustainable ecosystems, and business seemed tailored just for me!
JR: Any standout moments as CEO of Domaine Carneros?
RC: I'm lucky to be building on an amazing legacy at Domaine Carneros, started by the Taittinger family. One highlight was launching our solar microgrid project in partnership with Schneider Electric. This badass technology connects our solar renewable energy system to a battery that stores surplus energy generated during the day for use during peak demand in the evenings and during morning start-up. It allows us to produce 70-80% of our energy needs and keep the lights on even during power outages!
JR: First wine memory?
RC: I was inspired by some old-school friends and their siblings back in university. I remember downing some Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio and Marqués de Cáceres Rioja at our barbecues, thinking we were the most sophisticated sips around!
JR: Wintry Napa evenings call for...?
RC: Our Ultra Brut, the driest sparkling in the Domaine Carneros portfolio, is perfect for pairing with lighter, seafood- and veggie-focused dishes. Lately, I've been enjoying the complex notes of our 2018 Late Disgorged Brut.
JR: Swing by this evening-what's on the menu?
RC: I'm whipping up some scallops with snap peas and shiitake mushrooms in a soy-ginger sauce over rice. Let's pop open a Blanc de Blancs Champagne and follow it with a Chablis!
Lately, we tossed an Academy Awards party and invited friends over, including one who hooked us up with some killer wines from Grand Cru Selections. In return, we opened a bottle of their Ronco del Gnemiz Rosso, which paired beautifully with our Mediterranean-inspired grilled chicken and Greek salad.
JR: A sommelier who's left an impression?
RC: On Valentine's Day, my husband and I dropped by La Toque in Napa, and Mike Lee and his team nailed it with their pairings. The perfect match? Chef Ken Frank's Key West yellowtail snapper in a rich bouillabaisse with the unique 2022 Comando G Navatalgordo Grenache.
JR: Desert island wine?
RC: A toughie, but I'd go with a Blanc de Blancs Champagne or white Burgundy. Chardonnay is the unifier!
JR: I think people often misunderstand wine...
RC: Wine is a natural, delicious beverage, crafted from yummy grapes. It's a storyteller, sharing the unique personality of its origins and bringing folks together for mindful enjoyment. And as newer generations begin to value the ethos of a brand, opting for sustainability-focused choices over boozy cocktails and hard seltzers, wine is a solid pick!
JR: Go-to non-wine drink?
RC: Tequila-based cocktails like palomas and spicy margaritas, even infused with cucumber for a refreshing twist.
JR: Wine region you're dying to visit?
RC: I'm totally captivated by volcanic island wines, like those produced on Etna in Sicily, particularly the ones made with the Nerello Mascalese grape. I've yet to pay the island a visit, but I'm itching to explore the Canary Islands and taste their unique vino too. For now, I'm looking forward to a tasting of the wines from the producer Envinate with the winemakers at our local Compline Wine Shop next week.
JR: The future of wine is...
RC: At Domaine Carneros, we love seeing younger generations appreciating sparkling wines and lighter reds with energy and tension. These wines offer a lower ABV and higher acidity, perfect for sipping all night and pairing with a wide variety of dishes. Bring it on, wine world!
JR: What's new at Domaine Carneros?
RC: We've got plenty of fun stuff in the works, from fresh oyster and caviar pairings to an updated summer menu for our Bubbles and Bites events. And I'm psyched about the launch of our Crane Cuvée, an extraordinary, limited-release single-vineyard Brut Rosé. This farewell masterpiece from Eileen Crane, our founding winemaker and former CEO, is a must-try!
Remi Cohen, now CEO of Domaine Carneros, reminisced about her early days in the wine world. She shared that it was UC Davis' Viticulture and Enology program that caught her attention, with its unique blend of biological, chemical, agricultural, sustainable ecosystem, and business studies, tailored perfectly to her interests.
At Domaine Carneros, Remi launched a solar microgrid project in partnership with Schneider Electric, a move that bolstered the winery's environmental commitment. The project connected their solar renewable energy system to a battery that stores surplus energy generated during the day for use during peak demand in the evenings and during power outages.
When asked about her first wine memory, Remi fondly remembered downing Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio and Marqués de Cáceres Rioja at university barbecues, thinking they were the most sophisticated sips around.
